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Félix LORIOUX

( Morny)

Parfum élégant, Essence mystérieuse de Morny (Publicité, Volume 2, La Gazette du Bon ton, 1920 n°8)

Lucien Vogel éditeur, Paris 1920, 18x24cm, une feuille.

original print in color, printed on laid paper, signed lower right.
Trained at the School of Fine Arts in the studio of Fernand Cormon, André Édouard Marty works in the Gazette du Bon tone from the start of the review; it is then known for his elegant style in which often stand a whimsical or humorous touch. In a decidedly Art Deco inspiration, he draws Poiret dresses alongside Lepape but also those of Lanvin or to Doeuillet. This is particularly illustrating the dresses of the latter trait that reveals a multifaceted: fun, in silent, my heart .. where a young Cupid aims his arrow of a young woman falsely frightened!. The Taste bucolic in the garden, where little girls dresses with carefully placed serve their mother dressed in a stylish dress. Melancholic, perhaps, in The Secret pretty where we see two girls shyly confide any thought. Like his colleagues in the Gazette, Marty also works with other fashion magazines such as Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, yet two competing magazines for which he will be one of the few illustrators to work on it together. In parallel fashion illustrations, Marty also designs scenes for literary works such mythological scenes Henry Regnier or The Songs of Bilitis by Pierre Louÿs in 1937. The eclecticism of his style reached its peak in 1943 when he realizes a cartoon, Callisto, little nymph of Diana, "setting in motion ultimate feminine silhouettes that he composed for the Gazette.

Original content produced for the illustration of The Gazette fashionable, one of the finest and most influential twentieth century fashion magazines, celebrating the talent of creators and artists French burgeoning art deco.
Famous fashion magazine founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel, The Gazette fashionable appeared until 1925 with an interruption during the War of 1915 to 1920, due to mobilization of its editor. She is 69 Deliveries from just 2000 copies and is illustrated including 573 color plates and 148 sketches depicting models of fashion designers. Upon publication, these luxury publications "are for bibliophiles and worldly aesthetes" (Françoise Tétart-Vittu "good Gazette of tone" in the fashion dictionary, 2016). Printed on fine laid paper, they use a typeface created specifically for the magazine by Georges Peignot, the Cochin character, taken in 1946 by Christian Dior. The prints are made with the technique of metal stencil, enhanced color and some outlined in gold or palladium.
The adventure began in 1912 when Lucien Vogel, man of the world and fashion - it has already participated in Femina magazine - decided to found with his wife Cosette de Brunhoff (John's sister, the father of Babar) Gazette good tone in which the subtitle is then "Art, fashions and frivolities." Georges Charensol quotes the editor: "In 1910, he observed, there was no truly artistic fashion magazine and representative of the spirit of his time. So I thought of making a glossy magazine with truly modern artists [...] I was certain of success because for any fashion country can compete with France. "(" A great art editor. Lucien Vogel "in literary News, No. 133, May 1925). The success of the magazine is immediate, not only in France but also the US and South America.
Originally, Vogel therefore brings together a group of seven artists: André-Édouard Marty and Pierre Brissaud, followed by Georges Lepape and Dammicourt; and finally his friends from the School of Fine Arts as are George Barbier, Bernard Boutet de Monvel or Charles Martin. Other talents come quickly reach the equipped Guy Arnoux, Léon Bakst, Benito, Boutet de Monvel, Umberto Brunelleschi, Chas Laborde, Jean-Gabriel Domergue, Raoul Dufy, Edward Halouze Alexander Iacovleff, Jean Emile Laboureur Charles Loupot, Charles Martin, Maggie Salcedo. These artists, mostly unknown when Lucien Vogel appealed to them, will eventually become iconic figures and artistic sought. These are the same illustrators who make the drawings advertisements Gazette.
The boards highlight the dresses and sublime seven artists of the time: Lanvin, Doeuillet, Paquin, Poiret, Worth, Vionnet and Doucet. The designers provide for each number of exclusive models. Nevertheless, some of Illustrations contained no real model, but only the idea that the illustrator is done in the fashion of the day.
Gazette fashionable is a milestone in the history of fashion. Combining the aesthetic requirement and plastic unit, it brings together for the first time the great talents of the world of arts, literature and fashion and imposed by this alchemy, a new image of women, slender, independent and bold, also driven by the new generation of designers Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, Rochas Marcel ...
Recovery in 1920 by Condé Montrose Nast, Gazette fashionable modeled for the new composition and the aesthetic choices of the "little dying newspaper" that Nast had bought a few years ago: the Vogue magazine.

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